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Produced by Ed Frendo

Before You Begin

This cabinet is designed with room to spare at the top to avoid obstructing under-cabinet lighting. The sliding glass doors serve as a backsplash to protect display items from spills. Buy shelf rests and sliding-door tracks from a hardware store, referring to the instructions for the spacing tolerances. Make the cabinet and double check all the measurements before ordering the glass doors.

Ask a glazier (glass supplier or merchant) for float glass, which comes in various thickness. So the glass doors slide easily in the plastic track, have the edges machine-polished and arrised to round them over and remove any chips (this is included in the price of the glass, about $65 each door). For ease of opening, have glass finger slots ground into the face of the glass doors, for an extra $17 each.

Step 1: Cut Out the Parts

Mark and cut the cabinet pieces to size, or have the supplier cut them (see the cutting list). Stack the end panels and dividers with the front edges flush and the dividers centered over the end panels. Label the tops and mark the center line so all parts match.

Step 2: Rebate the Edges

Clamp a straightedge to the top, base and end panels. Use a router with a 1/2-in. straight cutting bit to cut an 1/4-in. x 3/8-in. rebate on the back edge of each panel. Cut a 1/4-in. x 7/8-in. rebate on front edge of top panel and 1/4-in. x 7/8-in. rebate on front edge of base panel.

Step 3: Mark Up the Holes

On inside face of end panels, mark a parallel line 1 3/4-in. from front edge and 5/8-in. from back edge of rebate shoulder. On both faces of dividers, mark lines 5/8-in. from front and back edges. Starting from center line, mark hole positions every 1 1/2-in. along lines.

Step 4: Drill the Holes

Use a nail to punch the center of each hole where the lines intersect. Drill 1/4-in.-diameter holes 1/4-in. deep on the inside face of the ends and both faces of the dividers.

TIP

For accuracy, drill from both sides of the dividers.

Step 5: Add the Edges

Position the pine edging flush with the front edge of the top, base, end panels and dividers, securing with adhesive and 1-in. brad nails in a nail gun.

TIP

The top and base edging creates a groove for the track.

Step 6: Assemble the Cabinet

Secure ends to top and base with adhesive and #8 x 1 1/2-in. particleboard screws. Mark out position of dividers with equal 15-in. spacing and secure with adhesive and #8 x 1 1/2-in. screws. Trim back panel, secure to rabbeted back edges with adhesive and #6 x 1-in. screws.

Step 7: Install the Tracks

Cut the top and bottom plastic sliding track to length with a hacksaw. Push into the groove formed by the rebate and the front edge strip.

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Position the track with deepest grooves at the top and shallower grooves in the base.

Step 8: Fit the Shelves

Insert the shelf rests and check shelves for fit. Sand the entire unit to remove any sharp edges. Remove top and bottom tracks to paint, applying an undercoat and two final coats.

TIP

Measure up to order the glass at this stage.

Step 9: Add the Glass Doors

Apply a small bead of construction adhesive to the grooves and push the tracks into position. Install the back glass door by pushing it into the top groove and pushing at the base to fit it into the base track. Repeat for front door.

Finished Countertop CabinetSue Ferris[+]
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