7 Hanging Solutions

1. Check Behind the Wall

Before buying anchors, work out the plasterboard thickness, the depth of the cavity behind it, and check for obstructions such as plumbing. Do this by:

• Drilling a hole through the wall using a 1/8-in. bit at the hanging point.
• Check the cavity by bending a 1-in. long, 90° hook at the end of a coat hanger, sliding it through and rotating it to feel for obstructions.
• Measure the depth of the cavity by pushing the hanger all the way in and use a felt tip pen to mark it flush with the wall then pull it tight to the back of the wall to make a second mark. The distance between is the depth of the cavity, and the distance from the second mark to the hook is the thickness of the plasterboard.

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2. Choose the Right Anchor

Always match the anchor to the thickness of the wall. Some anchors need space to pop open and can't be used in thin or insulated walls.

Also use the correct screw. Some anchors come with sheet metal screws but you can often use a similar size wood screw.

Metal toggles only accept machine screws with a specific type of thread so if you need extra depth use longer screws of the same type.

3. Hang a Picture or Mirror

Choose a hanger based on the weight of the picture or mirror. They come in various sizes, with holes for as many as four pins.

A four-pin hanger can hold the heaviest of mirrors but for extra strength, and to prevent the frame from tipping, position a pair of hangers about 10-in. apart.

Secure the hanger by marking the hanging point on the wall and positioning the small pins in the angled holes. Lightly tap them into the plasterboard using a hammer. To remove the hanger, use pliers to grab the ends of the pins and twist them out, pulling gently upwards.

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4. Secure Hooks and Brackets

Plastic anchors often aren't up to the task, so use smart, self-drilling metal toggles for cavity walls.

Arrows on the face of the anchor show the alignment of the metal flange when it opens. Probe the wall to check there is room for the metal flange then turn it slightly in or out to adjust the orientation.

Remove fittings by undoing the anchor screw to expose the wall if a repaint is needed, leaving the anchor in the wall to be used again.

Install the anchor using a drill with a No. 2 Phillips head bit, slowing as the thread engages in the plasterboard and tightening until snug.

Secure the screw by winding it into the anchor. As it tightens the metal flange pops out and is drawn to the back of the plasterboard.

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5. Secure Lightweight Objects

Instead of using supplied plastic anchors, use self-drilling, screw-in anchors that are secured using a No. 2 Phillips head screwdriver or drill bit.

Metal or plastic, they work well for hanging small shelves and other decorative items that aren't used much and don't have to support a lot of weight.

Also use them to secure keyhole plates recessed or secured to the surface of shelves or pictures so they sit flat against the wall.

Install the anchor using a drill with a driver bit, slowing down as the large thread engages with the wall. Stop when the anchor is snug.

Secure the screw leaving enough space behind the screw head for the keyhole to slip over. Avoiding stripping the thread by over-tightening.

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6. Attach Shelf Brackets

If it is impossible to secure shelf brackets to a stud, mount them on plasterboard using mechanical anchors called molly bolts. They're secured using a setting tool and have wings that extend behind the plasterboard.

These cavity anchors can secure material from 3/8-in. to 1 1/2-in. thick and the pre-fitted screw can be removed without losing the anchor inside the wall so the shelf can be taken down then reinstalled. Use at least two for each shelf bracket.

Make the appropriate sized holes using a drill with a twist bit then use a setting tool to install the molly bolt.

Secure the bracket using a screwdriver to remove the machine screw. Position the bracket and refit the screw, tightening until secure.

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