Space is usually at a premium in the bedroom, but this padded headboard is as functional as it is decorative, providing storage all the way to the ceiling.
Step 1: Mark the Shelf Positions
Step 2: Attach the Rails
Step 3: Assemble the Units
Step 4: Add the Outer Sides
Step 5: Sand and Paint
Step 6: Add the Padding
Step 7: Attach the Fronts
Stack the four inner MDF side pieces (A1) on top of each other, ensuring the ends are flush. Mark the shelf positions on the edges as shown below in Diagram 1, then separate the pieces and draw perpendicular lines across both sides of each panel.
Glue and nail a 3/4-in. x 1 5/8-in. rail (E1) to each shelf (D1), using 2-in. finish nails. A pneumatic nailer will speed things along. Make sure the top edges of the rails are flush with the top edge of the shelves (see Diagram 2).
Screw and glue the shelves (D1) to the inner sides (A1) at the marked positions, using 2-in. particleboard screws. Note the top shelf is inverted. Turn the cabinet face down and attach the inner back (B) with screws. Repeat these steps for building the other end unit and center unit. Finally, stand up the three units and secure them to one another using 1 1/4-in. screws.
Complete the headboard by attaching the four outer sides (C) to the inner sides (A1) with wood glue and 1 1/4-in. particleboard screws.
Sand the units using 120-grit abrasive paper, slightly rounding all edges and corners. Apply a primer, followed by two coats of acrylic or oil-based paint.
Cut the backing boards (F) to size, set them on a flat surface, then lay the foam padding (G) on top of each panel. Stretch the fabric (H) over the foam and fasten it to the backing board with staples. You'll get a cleaner look by wrapping and stapling the fabric to the back of the backing boards.
Secure the two padded boards to the outer sides (C) from the inside using 1 1/4-in. particleboard screws. Make sure the outside edges are aligned (see Diagram 3). Fill and sand the screw holes, then touch up the paint.
© 2012 Reiman Media Group, LLC.