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  • Finished Bench
  • Step 1: Remove the Old Slats
  • Step 2: Strip the Paint
  • Step 3: Remove the Rust
  • Step 4: Repair Corroded Areas
  • Step 5: Prime and Paint
  • Step 6: Attach the New Slats
  • Finished Bench
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  • Finished Bench
  • Step 1: Remove the Old Slats
  • Step 2: Strip the Paint
  • Step 3: Remove the Rust
  • Step 4: Repair Corroded Areas
  • Step 5: Prime and Paint
  • Step 6: Attach the New Slats
  • Finished Bench
00

Before You Start

Various degrees of rust require various degree of work. Minor rust spots can be handled with a light sanding and application of primer and paint. More serious corrosion may require the removal of rusted and damaged areas with an angle grinder.

When replacing wood components, be certain to use a rot-resistant wood like teak, cedar, redwood or pressure treated pine. And use galvanized fasteners for the sturdiest, longest lasting results.

TIP

Wrought iron and cast iron differ primarily in terms of how much carbon they contain.Wrought iron has low carbon content and is easily shaped, bent and welded. Cast iron has a higher carbon content, which makes it stronger, but also more brittle. Today, many products, such as stair railings are sold as wrought iron but are actually cast.

Step 1: Remove Old Paint

It's not unusual for an old metal object to have so many layers of paint that it's impossible to remove fasteners or see any ornamental details. There are a variety of products and techniques for solving the problem. Whichever method you use, make certain to wear gloves, goggles, respirators or any other recommended safety gear.

• Stripping uses chemicals to dissolve the paint; they are often similar to those used on wood. The active chemicals tend to evaporate rapidly, so cover metal objects with plastic after application. Use water or other solvent and scrub brush to remove loosened stripper and paint.

• Dipping works well for small objects like hinges, knobs and fasteners. It involves completely immersing the object in the stripper until the paint has peeled away.

• Simmering (but not boiling) small objects in a solution of water and baking soda for 1/2 hour, then scrubbing with a soft nylon brush or pad, will remove some paints. If that fails, try another method.

• Burning requires using a propane torch or heat gun to "bubble the paint," which is then scraped off. Fumes are often toxic; work outdoors, use proper safety equipment and follow manufacturer's directions. Not recommended for the average DIYer.

• Abrasive Blasting involves bombarding the object with sand, glass beads, walnut shells or other particles to remove the paint. Small-scale machines can be rented or purchased, but for a one-shot project, it makes more sense to bring it to a company specializing in the procedure. Look under "sandblasting" in the yellow pages.

Step 2: Remove the Old Slats

Use an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut through rusted nuts and bolts. Use Vice Grips to prevent loose bolts from spinning as you work. Save at least one old slat to use as a pattern for creating new slats.

Step 1: Remove the Old SlatsSue Ferris[+]

TIP

When replacing wood components, be certain to use a rot-resistant wood like teak, cedar, redwood or pressure treated pine. And use galvanized fasteners for the sturdiest, longest-lasting results.

Step 3: Strip the Paint

Apply paint stripper according to manufacturer's directions, then scrub with a wire brush and rinse. Repeat as necessary.

Step 2: Strip the PaintSue Ferris[+]

TIP

Wear gloves and goggles to protect yourself from splashes. Gather paint scrapings (they most likely contain lead) in a plastic sheet and dispose of them properly.

Step 4: Remove the Rust

Use warm soapy water (or the stripper manufacturer's recommended solvent) to remove residue. Clamp the chair, then use sandpaper, steel wool and an angle grinder with a wire cup brush to remove loosened rust.

Step 3: Remove the RustSue Ferris[+]

TIP

Various degrees of rust require various degrees of work. Minor rust spots can be handled with a light sanding and application of primer and paint. More serious corrosion may require the removal of rusted and damaged areas with an angle grinder.

Step 5: Repair Corroded Areas

Use a rust dissolver like Naval Jelly to remove any remaining rust, then rinse clean. Restore missing or damaged ornamental areas with epoxy repair putty, formulated for use on metal.

Step 4: Repair Corroded AreasSue Ferris[+]

Step 6: Prime and Paint

Apply a "direct to rust" metal primer to stabilize rusty surfaces and create a better bond for the topcoat. Apply two coats of exterior metal paint.

Step 5: Prime and PaintSue Ferris[+]

TIP

Paint the bolt heads and nuts you'll use for attaching the new slats.

Step 7: Attach the New Slats

If new mounting holes are required in the metal sidepieces, drill a series of evenly spaced holes. Cut the slats to length, drill holes about 1-in. in from the ends, then fasten them in place with bolts and nuts.

Step 6: Attach the New SlatsSue Ferris[+]
Finished BenchSue Ferris[+]
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How to Restore a Cast Iron Bench

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