Whenever I come across an old 2×4 I’m in awe. Older wood is easy to spot: the rings are more densely spaced and it’s heftier than the lumber we buy today because much of it was cut from virgin and old-growth forests.

Using that wood has created a lot of problems, though. Much of it has been (and still is being) cut down faster than it can regrow. Ecologically speaking, harvesting virgin forests does a lot of damage — not just to the creatures and birds who live in them but to humans, too.

“Forests provide habitat for animals and plants, clean and regulate the water system, regulate the climate, provide recreational opportunities to people, and provide wood and non-timber products we can harvest,” says Frederik Laleicke, a wood products extension specialist at North Carolina State University. “Some forests are protected sites for Indigenous people and others are the main source of income for local communities. There is so much more in a forest than just the wood!”

Because forests are more than the sum of their trees, old forests can’t just be regrown, at least not in our grandchildren’s lifetimes. They take centuries or more to mature. And that’s why buying sustainable lumber from responsibly managed forests is essential.

“If there’s an opportunity to take the extra step and use sustainable wood, it is even better for our environment and communities,” says Laleicke. “We must ensure that the forest stays intact as much as possible so it can continue to provide.”

To help with that, here’s how to find sustainable wood for your next project.

What Is Sustainable Wood?

Sustainable wood is lumber from responsibly managed forests that are tended with respect for environmental and community needs.

“Done right, forest management can provide a perpetual supply of timber while maintaining the integrity of forest ecosystems,” says Grant. “Also, forests that are managed have value for local people and are therefore less likely to be cleared for other land uses such as agriculture and development.”

Sustainable Wood Certifications

Sustainable wood is typically certified, with a logo stamped or printed onto the product or packaging. The two most common certifications are:

  • FSC (Forest Stewardship Council)
  • SFI (Sustainable Forestry Initiative)

These certifications include how the forests are managed and track the chain of custody— from when the wood is chopped down to when it gets turned into a product.

Where To Find Sustainable Wood

Most building materials stores offer sustainable wood. You can also use FSC’s online search tool to find local suppliers.

“Sustainable wood isn’t rare anymore,” says Laleicke. “Most major lumber companies produce it. It might take a few phone calls to suppliers and sawmills to find the right product, but it’s worth it to know that a new forest is already growing where the wood for our house came from.”

How To Tell if Wood Is Sustainable

Outside of FSC and SFI certifications, there is no sure way to tell if the wood is sustainable unless you happen to know the forest source or are willing to trust the assurances of the seller. “Because FSC has the strongest environmental and social standards, WWF recommends that people ask for FSC-certified wood,” says Grant.

What Type of Wood Is Most Sustainable?

Endangered tree species aside (which consumers have little chance of encountering), “There is no such thing as good or bad wood,” says Grant. “In other words, the type of wood or lumber doesn’t matter, but rather the forest practices that stand behind it.”

Beyond that, Laleicke recommends buying a species that grows in your area, from a local sawmill. “This is very similar to purchasing locally produced food items,” he says. “The purchase will benefit local businesses and support sustainable forest management in the area. Finding the right type of wood for a project can take time, but this is what makes the outcome outstanding.”

Is Sustainable Wood Expensive?

Not really. FSC-certified products are often 5 to 10% more expensive—though not always.

The higher cost comes from the extra effort sustainability requires, from growing and harvesting the tree to milling and processing it. “Certification is very stringent and requires a lot of additional documentation,” Laleicke says.

About the Experts

Frederik Laleicke is an assistant professor and wood products extension specialist at NC State University. He also teaches workshops about the processing of wood, and regularly visits sawmills and wood products companies in North Carolina and beyond.

Jason Grant is World Wildlife Fund‘s manager of corporate engagement for forests, through which he helps businesses with responsible wood sourcing practices, forest restoration and combating illegal logging. WWF also recently launched a wood risk tool, which give insights on whether a wood species or location of origin makes it particularly prone to being not sustainable.

Spring! A time to reassess priorities, ditch what’s no longer needed, vacuum out the cobwebs and make room for a year full of promise. For me, spring cleaning feels extra satisfying, like a giant refresh button on life — and it turns out I’m not alone.

According to a 2024 Nextdoor survey, nearly nine in ten people participate in the ritual of spring cleaning. And nearly everyone agreed it puts them in a better mood.

“Spring cleaning can be hard work, but also very satisfying,” says green-living author and advocate Stephanie Miller. “As you sort and set aside things you no longer want, it opens up the possibility of using your space differently— or maybe just enjoying the pleasure of a decluttered room.”

But, it’s also tempting to get a bit lazy by tossing old items in the bin and reaching for harsh cleaning chemicals — both of which only deflect the problem away from your house and onto the planet. So, here are some green spring cleaning tips to dodge those pitfalls.

Repair, Repurpose and Upcycle

Whether it’s a broken table, toaster or bicycle, there’s probably a place for it other than the trash can — and repairing or repurposing items (or giving them to someone who will) saves immense resources over manufacturing new ones.

“Nowadays, my clients want to declutter responsibly, and so we work closely to recycle, re-gift, donate, sell and compost as much as we possibly can,” says certified life and decluttering coach Julie Leonard. “Spend a little time researching where items can go and always check ahead, especially with charity shops, to make sure they will take all your items to avoid anything ending up in a landfill.”

Gift Good Clothing

The average American throws away more than 81 pounds of clothes every year. To avoid being part of this problem, Miller recommends first sending pictures of clothes you don’t want to family members who might be interested. Also, look for charities that accept specific types of clothing, such as professional workplace garb or gowns, then list other items in Buy Nothing groups or Facebook Marketplace.

Recycle Clothing That’s Beyond Repair

Many organizations can help you in your green spring cleaning efforts by responsibly disposing of worn-out clothing, towels and bedding for you. Outdoor manufacturers, like The North Face and Patagonia, will take back their used-up gear. Others, like For Days and Retold Recycling, will send you a shipping bag to fill up. Earth911 also has this helpful recycling locator.

Sort Specialty Items

With a bit of online searching, you can find places to get rid of most other old household items. For example, electronics can go to e-waste recyclers and electronics stores like Best Buy, Staples and Apple.

As for paint, give those half-empty cans to local schools and charities, says Miller. Or, if they’re too dried up to use, contact PaintCare or check whether your local paint retailer will accept them. “Before you go, check with your neighbors and friends to see if they would also like to get rid of theirs,” says Miller. “They will thank you!”

Switch to Plant-Based Lubes and Degreasers

When tending to bicycles, lawnmowers and squeaky doors, opt for plant-based products over petroleum-based ones (especially those containing PTFE, a forever chemical). Around 60% of the 2.5 or so billion gallons of petroleum lubricants used by Americans each year wind up in our groundwater, contaminating soil and harming ecosystems, wildlife, people and pets.

Gear Hugger makes a green lineup we’re particularly fond of, including a multi-purpose lube, a water-based heavy-duty degreaser (great for cleaning the grill and garden tools) and a rust protection/remover (for cars, boats and beyond).

Ditch Sponges and Plastic Cleaner Containers

“A year of plastic kitchen sponges will lie in landfills for up to 52,000 years, so instead invest in a few reusable cloths,” says Leonard. “Better still, repurpose old towels, linens, and T-shirts as cleaning clothes to declutter at the same time.” Also, choose refillable cleaning products to help end dependence on single-use plastic bottles.

DIY Cleaning Products

All of our experts advocated for DIY cleaners as a key to green spring cleaning. “Making your own cleaning products is easier than it sounds, and you can do it with products that are already in your pantry,” says award-winning environmental toxin expert Tonya Harris. “It also saves a lot of money, and you can control the ingredients to know exactly what’s in it. DIY cleaners are safer around kids and pets!”

Typical DIY ingredients include white vinegar and soda crystals (or bicarbonate of soda or baking soda), combined with lemons or essential oils for a fresh scent. “Not only are these ingredients generally affordable and natural, they typically work just as well as conventional cleaners, without the risky fumes or toxic chemicals,” says writer and environmentalist Ben Hardman. They’re also easier on the environment, from manufacturing through disposal.

Avoid Overusing Bleach

“Bleach is a powerful disinfectant, but isn’t without health risks,” says Harris. “It is corrosive, harmful to the respiratory system, and it can damage/discolor surfaces.” Instead, try isopropyl alcohol or hydrogen peroxide for disinfecting (but don’t use them together!).

As alternatives, Harris recommends rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide, both of which are listed on the EPA’s list of N products.

Freshen Naturally

Instead of using air fresheners with synthetic fragrances, many of which use ingredients that can cause health problems, open windows and incorporate lots of plants into your home. “Plants are natural air fresheners,” says Leonard. “Your home will not only look great but plants lift your mood and your home will smell fresh too.”

To further absorb and neutralize odors, you can try banking soda, cornstarch or coffee grounds. “Unlike traditional plug-in or spray air fresheners that just mask odors, these household staples can actually absorb and neutralize odors, getting to the root of the scent,” says Harris.

About the Experts

Stephanie Miller is the author of Zero Waste Living, the 80/20 Way and founder of Zero Waste in DC. She spent 25 years at the International Finance Corporation, where she was director of climate business, leading teams in finding innovative solutions to climate change. She reaches a wide audience through keynote presentations, learning events and household consultations.

Tonya Harris is an award-winning environmental toxin expert, the founder of Slightly Greener and author of The Slightly Greener Method, which offers busy moms simple solutions to reduce toxins. She holds a master’s degree in holistic nutrition and multiple certificates in the environmental health field, and has been featured on numerous national TV shows.

Julie Leonard is a certified life and decluttering coach with more than 30 years of psychology, mental health and coaching experience. She is the creator of the Simplify Your Life coaching program and The Intentional Happiness Circle, and author of Intentional Happiness: The Life-Changing Guide to Being Happy and Staying Happy.

Ben Hardman is a writer, environmentalist and the creator of the website Tiny Eco Home Life, a platform that helps people live more sustainable lives and reduce their impact on the environment. His business has been featured in outlets like The New York Times and BBC Radio 1.

There are a number of reasons to want to switch to electric appliances, HVAC and battery backup systems, like saving money on energy bills, improving home comfort and air quality, reducing our carbon footprints and making our homes more resilient to power outages. And those benefits are great.

Even just with climate change, “the decisions we make in our households are responsible for 42 percent of energy–related greenhouse gas emissions, from the way we heat and cool our homes, heat our water, how we cook and how we get from one place to another,” says Alex Amend, Director of Communications at Rewiring America.

But the price tag can be daunting. It can cost tens of thousands of dollars to fully electrify a house.

So, is all of the hassle actually worth it? Here’s what to know about the costs and benefits of switching to all-electric in your home.

What Does It Mean To Electrify a Home?

Electrifying a home means replacing appliances and systems that burn fossil fuels (like natural gas and propane) with ones powered by electricity. Those include:

  • Heating and cooling systems
  • Water heaters
  • Clothes dryers
  • Stoves and ranges
  • The house’s overall power supply (to remove it from a grid that uses fossil fuels)
  • EVs and EV chargers

Switching to all-electric is also a good opportunity to weatherize homes better to maximize energy savings and to add rooftop solar or review renewable options with your utility or community solar provider.

“To me, electrifying a home means identifying areas in your home where electricity is being inefficiently used and addressing them,” says Rodriguez.

What Are the Steps To Create an All-Electric Home?

Prioritize

“Understand where the most value comes from,” says Rodriguez. “Is it your lights? Your fridge? Your water heater? Then make a plan to tackle those.”

For example, if clean air is your highest priority, begin by replacing your gas stove with an induction model, and your gas heater with a heat pump, says Amend. “Also think about the useful life of each appliance, and plan to start with older machines first. And then think about the amps coming into your panel box and if you will need any upgrades to support the all-electric plan.”

Create a Budget

Fully electrifying your home is expensive, and most people can’t do it all at once. So consider your budget and what rebates and incentives are available to defray costs.

“Most everyone, including me, is not going to be able to afford to do this all at once,” says Amend. “It might make more sense to replace whatever appliance is aging out, before it dies, with a better electric version, since you’d have to buy a new one anyway. A home is a big investment and you should take the same level of planning and care you’d have for other home improvement projects. These are machines we rely on every single day!”

Weatherize Your Home

Weatherizing a home, aka winterizing or weatherproofing, means protecting your home from outside elements through steps such as sealing up cracks, adding insulation and replacing old windows. Weatherizing is often affordable, plus makes a big impact on energy savings.

To find out what steps make the most sense for your home, get an energy audit before you begin installing new appliances and systems. National rebates and incentives are also available for this, plus you can further save by buying a smaller heat pump if you have a weather-sealed home.

Prepare Your System Before It Breaks

So you don’t end up in a pinch when something breaks, pre-shop for models, find a contractor who can install them, figure out your electrical panel rating and make any necessary system upgrades now. Typically, people with at least 150 amps have ample capacity for the bigger electrification projects.

How Much Does It Cost To Convert a House to All Electric?

It depends on which systems you upgrade. Some, like water heaters, can be minimal, but to fully electrify a house will be pretty expensive.

To get an idea of what it will cost you, try Rewiring America’s Personal Electrification Planner, which helps calculate upfront costs, annual bill savings, emissions reductions and air pollution and health impacts. They also have info on electrification for renters.

Cost Breakdown for an All-Electric Home

For Rodriguez, those costs were:

  • Solar panels: $21,000
  • Backup battery: $8,000
  • LED bulbs: free (thanks to an incentive from his energy company)
  • Water heater and appliances: $6,000
  • Electrical panel/system upgrades: $2,500

In addition, upgrading to an HVAC electric heat pump typically ranges from $10,000 to $17,000 for a 1,500-square-foot home.

Keep in mind, some of these expenses will eventually pay for themselves in energy cost savings. For rooftop solar, that averages about seven years, and for the rest of the system’s lifetime (20 to 40 years) you have essentially a free source of electricity for powering your home and EV, says Amend.

Pros and Cons of Converting to an All-Electric Home

Pros

  • Energy savings
  • Improved home comfort
  • Improved indoor air quality, and outdoor air quality around appliance vents
  • Resilience from power outages, if you add battery storage
  • Positive climate impact (by greatly reducing your carbon footprint)
  • Lower operating costs for most U.S. households (based on local energy rates)
  • Increased home value.
  • Historic federal and local tax credits and rebates

Cons

  • Higher upfront cost
  • Availability of qualified contractors is lacking
  • The time it takes to research systems and find contractors

“It’s a time investment, just as much as it is a monetary one,” says Rodriguez. “The amount of vetting that has to be done to find the right fit for the job can be mentally taxing for most people.”

Is Electrify Your Home Worth It?

Yes, if you have the financial means. An electrified home is more efficient, healthier to live in, not susceptible to grid outages and better for the planet. But if you don’t have the money, remember it’s not an all-or-nothing prospect. Every step makes a difference, and some of the more affordable steps are also the most effective, such as weatherizing and replacing gas ranges and dryers.

FAQs

What’s the most expensive part of going all-electric?

Usually, it’s installing solar panels and battery backup systems, followed by a heat pump for HVAC — though those systems eventually pay for themselves in energy savings. Also, for homes with old wiring, the cost of upgrading the electrical can add up.

Is it cheaper to have an all-electric home?

Yes, for the majority of homes, but it depends on your region and whether you install solar. According to one study from the National Renewable Energy Laboratories (NREL), 62 to 95 percent of American households switching to a heat pump will see a drop in their energy bills. With weatherizing, that number rises to 82 to 97 percent of households seeing savings. Similarly, another NREL study found EV owners can save up to $1,000 yearly in fuel costs.

“In the beginning, it may not seem cheaper,” says Rodriguez. “But with time, and especially if you remain in the home for more than five years, you definitely see the savings.”

Can you convert to an all-electric home in stages?

Definitely. That’s how most people do it because it makes time and budgeting the project easier. Plus, it helps you take the most advantage of certain Inflation Reduction Act tax credits that can be accessed across multiple years.

What tax breaks and rebates are available for converting to an all-electric home?

The Inflation Reduction Act offers tax credits to everyone, plus gives money to states to administer rebates for low-income households. California, Hawaii, New Mexico and New York will have their programs up and running in 2024. In some areas, state and utility rebates are also available. To find out what rebates and tax credits you might qualify for, try Rewiring America’s Inflation Reduction Act Savings Calculator, plus ask your local utility company and municipal and state energy offices.

About The Experts

  • Alex Amend is Director of Communications at Rewiring America. He’s personally been cooking on an induction stove for over two years, drives a Chevy Bolt and recently secured grant money to help install a solar and battery backup system at his local fire station in rural New Mexico, where he serves as a volunteer firefighter.
  • Geraldo Rogdriguez is a homeowner in Raleigh, North Carolina, and works as Head of Customer Operations for a software company. He has been electrifying his house, including installing a home battery system to mitigate power outages that happen in extreme summer heat.

Most homeowners know insulation impacts your home’s energy efficiency and sound barriers. But it also affects our environment and health.

If you notice your home doesn’t regulate temperatures well, amplifies sounds and feels drafty — all contributing to an extremely high energy bill — you may want to evaluate your insulation. A poorly-insulated house releases more greenhouse gases because your HVAC system works much harder to maintain your desired temperatures.

To learn about the best insulation options, I talked with Tony Leiner, owner of Whole House Insulation, Inc. in Milwaukee, Wisconsin with 41 years in the industry. His advice to homeowners: “Do your homework on different insulations and know what chemicals you’re exposing yourself and others to.”

The good news is, we’ve come a long way with insulation. We’re no longer stuck with products packed with toxic and carcinogenic fumes. Without compromising efficiency, here are some sustainable home insulation options that are safe, good for the environment and insulate really well.

Cellulose Insulation

A green product derived from recycled materials, cellulose insulation comes in loose-fill or blown-in formats. Treated with boric acid to repel mold and pests, it’s safer to install than fiberglass because it’s non-combustible and doesn’t contain carcinogens or gases.

Cellulose provides a good sound barrier and costs about the same as fiberglass.

“This insulation provides thermal protection, and our customers are happy with the product,” Leneir says. “New construction is beginning to use cellulose insulation because it is better for the environment and is the best product to install.”

Every insulation product comes with an R-value, required by local building codes, that illustrates how well it insulates. It refers to the resistance (hence the “R”) of heat transfer from hot to cold air, or how well the material resists this transfer. The higher the number, the more thermal-resistant it is. Required R-values vary by region and climate, and in most cases you’ll need some depth to meet the code requirements.

Cellulose has an R-value of 3.5 per inch of insulation, so six inches gives you a total R-value of 21.

Mineral Wool Insulation

Cutting Mineral wool with utility knife

Also known by the brand name Rockwool, manufacturers create this by melting basalt rock together with slag — a byproduct of the copper and steel industry — and spinning the resulting material into fibers.

The fibers are then woven into batts, about the same size as fiberglass batt insulation but denser. Mineral wool also repels water so mold can’t grow on these batts. Their extra bulk also provides better soundproofing. Mineral wool batts are about 25 percent more expensive than fiberglass, however, with an R-value of 4.0 per inch.

Denim Insulation

Did you ever think those old jeans could someday become insulation for someone’s home?

Denim insulation, also known as UltraTouch Insulation, features 80% recycled denim jeans. It’s flame retardant and treated with boric acid, which prevents bacteria growth and repels bugs. Denim has properties that reduce the transfer of heat, making it a good barrier and a competitor of traditional fiberglass insulation.

Denim insulation comes in batts so it’s easy to install in walls, attic floors and ceilings, and has an R-value of 3.5 per inch. However, it tends to be 10% more expensive than fiberglass insulation.

Sheep’s Wool Insulation

Dutch wall with natural sheep wool isolation

Made of actual sheep’s wool, this insulation naturally collects humidity in the air while acting as a purifier. It’s made by cleaning and drying the wool, then combing the fibers to create multiple layers. Some manufacturers add a polyester adhesive to hold the layers together.

You can find it in batts or blown-in form, making it a good insulator for ceilings, floors, attics and walls. The R-value for sheep’s wool ranges from 3.5 to 3.8 per inch, and can be 25% to 50% more expensive than fiberglass.

Cork Insulation

Cork is derived from the bark on a specific type of oak tree from the Mediterranean and North Africa. Cork has natural anti-fungal, fire resistant and antimicrobial properties, so additional chemicals aren’t needed to make it an effective insulator in homes.

Cork insulation comes in boards with an R-value of 3.6 to 4.2 per inch. Though one of the most sustainable insulations, it can be expensive. Depending on the thickness of the corkboard, it will run you $4 to $12 per square foot, significantly more than fiberglass.

What is the “best” backyard? While it’s hard to define what actually makes a backyard the “best,” we think any backyard where you enjoy spending time is a winner. All it takes is a little inspiration and some DIY know-how.

On the fourth episode of the At Home with Family Handyman series The Outdoor Show, we got an up-close look at two projects that transformed a pair of homes. At one location, we see the addition of two gazebos, giving that backyard dual shady spots for relaxing outdoors. The other project was a pool and deck combination that turned a basic backyard into something closer to Club Med.

A gazebo is a great addition to any yard because it gives you a little oasis for kicking back when the weather’s warm. Building a gazebo is a multi-day project, depending on the complexity of the design. But it’s still something most people can DIY. There are also gazebo kits that save you some time, too.

If a gazebo isn’t your speed, you could build a pergola, another way to add a shady nook in your backyard (learn the difference between the two). They’re great for covering a paver patio or spot in your garden. Another option is the classic screened-in porch, a simple way to enclose your outdoor space so you can relax outdoors without being bothered by flies or mosquitoes. Check out our favorite backyard gazebo ideas for summer.

When it’s hot outside, a pool really makes a terrific addition to any backyard. But to really improve the look and feel, it’s best to surround it with a deck. There are a few options for decking materials go, so make sure to choose something that’s durable and fits the look you want.

Building a deck is one of the most common large DIY projects. While there’s a lot that goes into it, there’s no reason to be intimidated by the task.

Whatever you choose to make your backyard a little more comfortable, be sure to check out The Outdoor Show, streaming on At Home with Family Handyman, for guidance and inspiration. And while you’re on the At Home with Family Handyman app, check out the library of instructional videos for step-by-step instructions for building the perfect outdoor oasis.

The Outdoor Show can be found on the At Home With Family Handyman streaming channel. At Home is streaming now on Samsung TV PlusXUMOThe Roku ChannelLG ChannelsPlexfuboTVSling Free and the Family Handyman app. It’s also available on iOS, Apple TV, Android, AndroidTV, FireTV and Roku devices.

Moles, with their giant flapper hands, might be the cutest of the burrowing mammals. But if you’ve got mole tunnels and hills throughout your yard, you may have a different attitude about them.

How much do you know about moles? Roger Dickens, wildlife technical services manager with Ehrlich Pest Control, gives us the details about these beneficial but occasionally maddening creatures.

Are Moles Rodents?

No. Dickens says they’re more closely related to bats than mice.

Sometimes people confuse moles with rodents like pocket gophers and voles, though. Dickens says voles and moles can be distinguished by the tunnels they dig. “Moles have underground tunnels,” Dickens says, “while voles tunnel through the grass above ground.”

Like moles, pocket gophers make underground tunnels, but create different kinds of hills. “[M]ole hills are mounds of soil, and gopher mounds have a distinct plug of soil where the gopher closed the opening,” Dickens says. “Mole hills lack this plug because the hills are pushed up from underground.”

Where Do Moles Live?

“Moles live in underground dens that are connected by underground tunnels,” Dickens says. “The dens are often located under solid structures such as downed trees, sidewalks or driveways.”

Moles tunnel under the grass looking for grubs, worms and other bugs. Those tunnels can be shallow or deep, Dickens says, depending on their use and the season. Their burrows and tunnels are typically found where insects thrive, in fields and wooded areas shaded with vegetation. And, of course, sometimes in your yard.

Will moles get in your home?

No.

“As a general rule, moles spend 99% of their time underground,” Dickens says. Because they spend their entire lives digging and looking for insects in the dirt, “moles rarely if ever come above ground and will not enter the home,” Dickens says.

What Do Moles Eat?

Moles are insectivores. They love grubs, other bugs and earthworms. Though their tunnels disturb grass and plant roots, they do not eat plants.

According to the University of Wisconsin, other animals like ground squirrels and mice may use mole tunnels to munch on roots and bulbs. But as far as moles go, Dickens says, “Damage to plants would be inadvertent.”

Are Moles Nocturnal?

Not necessarily. “Moles tend to be active throughout all times of the day due to their habit of remaining underground,” Dickens says.

Even if they tunnel at all hours of the day, Dickens says “while underground, they are safe from predators such as cats, dogs, foxes, coyotes, hawks and owls.”

Do Moles Hibernate?

“No, they are active year-round,” Dickens says. “They are most active in the spring and summer during rainy periods.” That’s because the rain softens the soil, making it easier for them to tunnel and forage.

“During the winter, they tunnel beneath the frost line and continue to forage for food,” he says.

What Attracts and Repels Moles?

Moles tunnel in your yard because there’s food there. “This activity is generally a continuation of tunneling from an adjacent area,” Dickens says. If you have well-drained, loose soil with lots of insect activity and earthworms, a mole will find it appealing.

Repelling moles comes down to reducing their food source, Dickens says, or trapping them. Grub-control pesticides will kill grubs, a bane to gardeners everywhere. Natural methods like milky spores can work, but take several years to reach peak effectiveness. Mole-deterrence products achieve varying levels of success, Dickens says.

Moles go where the food is, so if you get rid of one mole, another might move in. “There is no way to completely eliminate the chances of moles coming into your yard,” Dickens says. “Moles are constantly tunneling and foraging and can find their way into your yard at any time.”

Do Moles Bite People?

No. They have teeth to eat their insect and worm prey, but moles spend their entire lives underground, so you’ll probably never interact with one.

“The chances of ever seeing a live mole above ground are very remote,” Dickens says, “and therefore people or pets are not likely to be bitten.”

Are Moles Dangerous?

No. But their hills and tunnels may harm the grass, create a tripping hazard or interfere with your lawn mower.

Actually, they’re a good animal to have in your yard. “Moles do serve a beneficial purpose by aerating the soil in yards,” Dickens says. “They also control unwanted white grubs in the soil.”

How Long Do Moles Live?

Moles have an average lifespan of three to five years, according to Dickens.

For generations, mowing lawns was a kid’s first major responsibility. Lawn mowing is good exercise, teaches responsibility and lets kids earn some money.

At the same time, children shouldn’t be rushed into this chore. Using a lawn mower requires good judgment, along with the physical size and strength to operate the machinery safely. If things go wrong, the results can be tragic.

Nationwide Children’s Hospital reports that every year, almost 8,500 children arrive in emergency rooms with lawn mower-related injuries. According to the Amputee Coalition, lawn mower accidents are the leading cause of major limb loss in children under 10 years of age.

Parents wondering if it’s appropriate for their child to mow the lawn should consider the child’s age, maturity, and the physical challenges of the specific mower and your property.

What Age is Appropriate for Lawn Mowing?

Many hospitals and organizations recommend parents follow the American Academy of Pediatrics (AAP) guidelines: Children should be at least 12 years old to operate a push mower, and 16 to operate a riding mower.

Further, children under 12 should be kept away from running lawn mowers completely. That means no riding on the back bumper, or on a parent’s lap.

But age is only part of the picture. Lawn care expert Bryan Clayton notes it also takes appropriate maturity to operate a mower safely. “A child ready to mow the lawn should be willing to learn and follow instructions closely,” he says.

Clayton began mowing at an early age, eventually transitioning those skills into a successful landscaping business before co-founding GreenPal. Clayton cautions against assuming a child is ready for mowing simply because they’re physically capable.

“It’s not just about turning the mower on and pushing,” he says. “They need to understand the pattern in which to mow, how to handle the mower on slopes, where to walk, and how to respect the machine’s power.”

As a parent, ask yourself if your child is good at following directions and respecting safety precautions. If they can’t handle small tasks responsibly, they likely can’t operate a lawn mower safely.

If your child possesses the maturity to handle a mower, the next step is checking if they’re physically capable of safely operating a specific model.

When Can Kids Use Push Mowers?

Before letting your child operate a push mower, carefully consider these factors:

Height

For most users, the mower handle should fall between the waist and chest. Unfortunately, there’s no single height requirement, because different mowers feature different handle lengths and angles. The real question is whether your child is the right height for your specific mower.

To find out, let your child push the mower around the yard while it isn’t running. Watch to see if the front or rear wheels consistently come off the ground.

If the handle is too high, they’ll apply upward force as they push, or pull down attempting to bring the handle to a more appropriate height. Either motion will raise the front or back wheels off the ground, creating an uneven mow and unsafe conditions.

Strength

A heavy mower can be difficult to maneuver. Gas-powered mowers are typically heavier than electric models, while battery-powered mowers are heavier than plug-in models.

Self-propelled mowers have some pros and cons. They can make it easier to work with heavy mowers and uneven terrain, but not all come with adjustable speeds. If your child has to sprint to keep up with the mower, a different mower that can match its assist to the user’s walking speed would be a better, safer option.

When Can Kids Use Riding Mowers?

AAP guidelines suggest treating a riding mower like a car. Hence, the age 16 guideline. The child also needs legs long enough to work the brakes and enough weight to activate the safety seat. (Typically, riding mowers will cut off if the rider leaves the seat. As a scrawny teenager, I used to trigger that cut-off when bouncing over bumpy terrain.) Common sense and maturity factor in as well.

Some parents assume that a child responsible enough to handle motorsports can handle a riding mower. But mowers aren’t ATVs. Make sure your child doesn’t ride the mower like it’s on a dirt racetrack.

Other Ways Children Can Help With Lawn Work

Iesha Mulla, founder of Parental Questions, says introducing kids to lawn care at an early age allows parents to track their ability to handle the responsibility of more complex tasks.

Raking leaves or trimming bushes may seem simple. But as Mulla says, “This will give you an idea of their awareness of safety protocols in relation to moving machinery and sharp blades.”

Beginner tasks include:

  • Collecting yard waste: A low-key way to start kids off in gardening and lawn care.
  • Planting: Introduces kids to tools like trowels and spades. Then observe how they handle delicate tasks.
  • Using a manual reel mower: Introduces children to mowing with far less risk of injury.
  • Using a string trimmer: This introductory power tool is a low-risk way to see if your child can safely and responsibly carry out the task.

As a child demonstrates responsibility and aptitude, reward them with more freedom and more powerful tools. Eventually they’ll be mowing, but the exact pace is up to you as the parent.

“Every child develops differently,” says Mulla. “Trust your judgment!”

I had a rough initiation into the world of furnace maintenance.

I purchased my first home in 2003, but its gas furnace looked like it was manufactured during the Carter administration. It cost a huge amount of money to operate and habitually switched itself off at inopportune times. We gave it a nickname, Clarice, because we had to visit so frequently to relight the pilot light.

Knowing what I know now, I could probably have squeezed a few more years of service from Clarice. Instead, we went ahead and replaced it. That’s when I started to get smart about furnaces.

Clarice was indeed an inefficient relic and should have been replaced sooner. Modern furnaces must hit an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) rate of 80 percent, and no repair could bring Clarice to those standards. These days, gas furnaces are even more efficient — some close to 100 percent — and they don’t fill the atmosphere with pollutants.

If you’re moving into your first home, say goodbye to the halcyon days of complaining to the landlord when your furnace doesn’t work. It’s worth taking the time to know your furnace better. That way you can give it the TLC it needs, and tell the difference between repairs you can do yourself and those that need professional attention.

What Is a Furnace?

A furnace is an appliance that generates heat — usually enough to supply an entire building. It does this by burning a fuel or passing electricity through resistive heating elements.

A furnace isn’t the same as a heat pump, which transfers heat from outdoors into the building. If your central heat system doesn’t include an air conditioner, and it’s connected to an outdoor unit with a fan, you have a heat pump that requires different maintenance than a furnace.

How Does a Furnace Work?

A furnace works in conjunction with a room thermostat and an electronic control panel.

When the thermostat detects the room temperature has fallen below its preset minimum, it sends a signal to the control system to switch on the heat. A blower housed in a structure called the air handler also switches on and circulates warm air through the ductwork system.

Many homeowners find furnaces intimidating because of complicated control system. Furnaces contain safety sensors, switches and high-limit fuses that wear out or malfunction periodically. While homeowners can address some of these issues, diagnosis and repair are usually best left to a qualified technician.

Types of Furnaces

Virtually all modern furnaces are housed in rectangular metal boxes and classified by the type of fuel used. Most furnaces operate in conjunction with an air handler that connects to the supply and the return ducts. That’s where the blower is located. Air handlers may be separate from the furnace.

Electric

Electric furnaces feature a high-voltage heating element. The blower draws air into the heating element, then circulates it back through the ducts. Electric furnaces have no combustion chamber and don’t require a flue.

Standard-efficiency natural gas/propane

These require a combustion chamber and a flue. Heat created in the sealed combustion chamber is transferred to the blower through a thermally conductive plate called a heat exchanger. Combustion gases exhaust through the flue, which extends through the roof into the open air.

High-efficiency natural gas/propane

Also known as condensing furnaces, these have an AFUE greater than 90.

Instead of a flue, they utilize a secondary heat exchanger, basically a set of coils where combustion gases cool and condense. Condensation produces heat, which combines with the heat from the primary exchanger and circulates via the blower. The byproduct, known as condensate, is carried away by a PVC drain that extends through the wall.

Heating oil

Like standard efficiency gas furnaces, oil-burning furnaces also feature a combustion chamber, heat exchanger and exhaust flue. A fuel pump sprays oil into the combustion chamber. Oil-burning furnaces are popular in regions of the Northern U.S. and Canada where fuel oil may be cheaper than gas.

How Long Does a Furnace Last?

Electric furnaces tend to last longer that gas or oil furnaces (up to 20 years) because they contain fewer parts and no combustion chamber. A gas or oil furnace can last for 15 years. It isn’t unusual for homeowners to keep their furnaces longer than that, but performance usually suffers.

How To Maintain a Furnace

The top maintenance task for homeowners with a furnace is replacing the air filters regularly. There’s one in the air handler and usually one in the main return register in the house. This should be done every three months of continuous operation to maintain furnace performance and keep the indoor air free of contaminants.

Other important maintenance tasks include:

  • Clean the blower: At least once a year, turn the furnace off, let it cool, open the air handler and brush dust off the blower fins and the motor. If you notice squeaking or grinding sounds when the blower is running, spray some lubricant along the axis where the fins rotate.
  • Dust off the heat exchanger: Dust inhibits heat flow. Wipe it off with a dry rag.
  • Inspect the ducts: Look for holes, tears or gaps in the ductwork and patch them with aluminum foil tape (not duct tape).

If you own a gas furnace, do these additional tasks:

  • Check the ignition system and flame condition: Remove the front cover and have someone turn on the furnace while you watch to make sure the ignition system is working properly. All the flames should be blue. If any are orange or yellow, or they sputter, the burners need to be professionally cleaned.
  • Clean the flame sensor: Once a year, remove the flame sensor following the instructions in your owner’s manual, and clean it with sandpaper. Over time, it tends to be covered in soot that it can’t detect a flame and shuts down the furnace.

Furnace Troubleshooting

Furnace malfunctions usually mean something is wrong with the control circuitry or the thermostat settings. Always check the thermostat before assuming anything else is wrong.

It’s also important to check the circuit breaker that controls the furnace to make sure it hasn’t tripped. If your gas furnace shuts down frequently, try cleaning the flame sensor. Other problems are best left to pros for diagnosis and repair.

Note: If you smell gas in the furnace room, turn off the furnace and call an HVAC technician immediately.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Furnace?

Depending on the type of furnace, it can run from $3,000 to $7,600, including labor and permits. Electric furnaces are easiest to replace and cost the least, while high-efficiency gas furnaces cost the most.

Furnace Alternatives

A heat pump is a viable alternative to a furnace in many parts of North America except for those with extremely cold temperatures. Contemporary models can heat a home when the outdoor temperature is minus-10 degrees. Beginning in 2023, the federal government will offer incentives for homeowners looking to install a new one.

A wood stove or pellet stove can efficiently heat a home with an open floor plan. A hydronic heat system with a central boiler and radiators, baseboard heaters or in-floor pipes spread throughout the house is an increasingly popular heating option.

Thinking about buying a chain saw? Consider a battery-powered one.

While these cordless chain saws can’t go toe-to-toe with gas-powered chain saws in run-time and power, they’ll do the job for most homeowners. And for many people, their advantages — no hard-to-start two-cycle engine, no mixing gas and oil and no fouled spark plugs — make up for any shortcomings.

We put a few models through their paces to find out what you can expect from a battery-powered chain saw. Here’s what we found from our cordless chainsaw test.

What We Looked For

Run-time

We tested run-time two ways. First, by cutting through a 16-in.-diameter log. That’s a tough slog; so many teeth carving at the same time draws a lot of battery power. Second, by cutting through eight-inch logs — work that’s more typical for the average homeowner.

Charging time

As you’ll see, most battery chargers won’t keep up with a saw’s run-time. For any battery-powered saw, keep an extra battery or two handy if your work requires more than just trimming a few branches. Extra batteries are essential for chain saw work that’s far from home and your plugged-in charger.

Specs and features

Criteria included bar length; weight; whether they feature a hand-guard/chain brake, bucking spikes and tool-free chain adjustment; and the ease of locating replacement chains.

Cordless Chain Saw Safety Gear

You must take chain saw safety seriously. In a split second, a slip or errant cut can cause severe injury. Here are a few safety measures you should take:

  1. Protect your hands with gloves containing fibers that stop chains.
  2. Protect your feet with steel- or composite-toe boots.
  3. Battery-powered chain saws are quieter than their gas-powered counterparts, but they’re still noisy. Wear hearing protection.
  4. Protect your eyes and face from flying wood chips. Safety glasses will do. A full face shield is better.
  5. Protect your legs with chaps woven with fibers that will stop a chain.
  6. If you’re cutting branches or limbs overhead, wear a hard hat. Hard hat/face shield/earmuff safety gear combos are readily available.

Cordless Chainsaw Test Results

The battery run-time for these saws surprised me — I expected it to be longer. But for our test, we cut continuously, with the trigger held down the whole time.

A more typical scenario for a homeowner might be limbing a downed tree. In that case, four to nine minutes of actual cutting time takes off a lot of limbs in brief cuts. An extra battery doubles your cutting time. For some avid users, the run-time might be a deal breaker.

Also, when we cut the 16-in. logs, the air temperature was 32 F, which I thought might affect battery life. So to cut the 8-in. logs, I brought them into a heated shop to take temperature out of the equation. The differences were marginal. For the amount of chain sawing I do, I’d still opt for battery over gas. Have you heard about Stihl GTA 26 pruner? It is a compact, handheld battery-operated pruner weighing 2.7 lbs.

Which Cordless Chainsaw is Best?

For me, the Makita stood out for its comparatively long running time and light weight. The saw cut quickly and aggressively. It has a balanced feel and metal bucking spikes that protrude well beyond its housing.

Bucking spikes poke slightly into the bark during the cut, giving you a solid fulcrum to tip the bar into the cut. This eases the work and makes it safer as well.

Makita’s tool-free chain tension adjustment — a feature available in three of the tested saws — is really nice as well. The Worx and Greenworks were excellent performers with nice price tags. All said and done, the six saws work well, so weigh the factors important to you.

Brad’s Pick: Makita XCU04

Makita XCU04 chainsaw

The best overall cordless chainsaw is the Makita XCU04.

Battery voltage: 36V 5Ah. Extra battery set: $170.

Elapsed time for a single cut through a 16-in.-dia. log: 1:14.

Run-time cutting a 16-in.-dia. log: 7:53.

Run-time cutting 8-in.-dia. logs: 8:08.

Charging time: 50 minutes.

Bar length: 16 in.

Chain brake: Yes.

Bucking spikes: Yes.

Higher Ah battery: No.

Tool-free chain adjustment: Yes.

Weight: 11.5 lbs.

Replacement chain: Commonly available at home centers.

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Echo 58V

 Chainsaw comparison echo 58v

Here are the specs for the Echo 58V:

Battery voltage: 58V 4Ah. Extra battery: $216

Elapsed time for a single cut through a 16-in.-dia. log: 1:25.

Run-time cutting a 16-in.-dia. log: 6:47.

Run-time cutting 8-in.-dia. logs: 9:05.

Charging time: 52 minutes.

Bar length: 16 in.

Chain brake: Yes.

Bucking spikes: Yes, plastic.

Higher Ah battery: No.

Tool-free chain adjustment: No.

Weight: 15 lbs.

Replacement chain: Commonly available at home centers.

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Greenworks UltraPower 60v

Greenworks UltraPower 60v

The Greenworks UltraPower 60v is the fastest charging cordless chainsaw we tested.

Battery voltage: 60V 4Ah. Extra battery: $250.

Elapsed time for a single cut through a 16-in.-dia. log: 1:37.

Run-time cutting a 16-in.-dia. log: 5:37.

Run-time cutting 8-in.-dia. logs: 8:30.

Charging time: 23 minutes.

Bar length: 18 in.

Chain brake: Yes.

Bucking spikes: Yes.

Higher Ah battery: 8Ah battery available for $350.

Tool-free chain adjustment: No.

Weight: 15 lbs.

Replacement chain: Commonly available at home centers.

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Ryobi 40V

Ryobi 40V

The Ryobi 40V is less expensive than the others, making it the best budget cordless chainsaw on this list.

Battery voltage: 40V 4Ah. Extra battery: $160.

Elapsed time for a single cut through a 16-in.-dia. log: 3:22.

Run-time cutting a 16-in.-dia. log: 4:38.

Run-time cutting 8-in.-dia. logs: 3:40.

Charging time: 36 minutes.

Bar length: 16 in.

Chain brake: Yes.

Bucking spikes: No.

Higher Ah battery: 6Ah available for $200.

Tool-free chain adjustment: No.

Weight: 14 lbs.

Replacement chain: Usually need to order.

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Ego 56V

EGO 56V chainsaw

The Ego 56V gave us the fastest test cut through a 16-in.-dia. log.

Battery voltage: 56V 5Ah. Extra battery: $250.

Elapsed time for a single cut through a 16-in.-dia. log: 50 seconds.

Run-time cutting a 16-in.-dia. log: 7:21.

Run-time cutting 8-in.-dia. logs: 8:57

Charging time: 64 minutes.

Bar length: 18 in.

Chain brake: Yes.

Bucking spikes: Yes.

Higher Ah battery: 7.5 and 10Ah batteries are available starting at $150.

Tool-free chain adjustment: Yes.

Weight: 14.5 lbs.

Replacement chain: Commonly available at home centers.

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Worx Nitro

Worx–Nitro chainsaw

At just 11 lbs., the Worx Nitro is the lightest cordless chainsaw on our list.

Battery voltage: 40V 4Ah. Extra battery set: $120.

Elapsed time for a single cut through a 16-in.-dia. log: 1:21.

Run-time cutting a 16-in.-dia. log: 6:25.

Run-time cutting 8-in.-dia. logs: 8:15.

Charging time: 60 minutes.

Bar length: 16 in.

Chain brake: Yes.

Bucking spikes: Yes, plastic.

Higher Ah battery: 4, 5 and 6Ah batteries are available for $100 to $130.

Tool-free chain adjustment: Yes.

Weight: 11 lbs.

Replacement chain: Commonly available at home centers.

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Mowing a lawn is enough of a chore without going back and raking up the clippings. But if you don’t do it, that bed of clippings might suffocate the grass.

You could collect the clippings in a bag, dump them in a pile, add in other organic material and turn it into useful compost. Or you could pulverize the clippings into particles small enough to safely leave on the lawn. That’s exactly what a mulching lawn mower does.

Mulching lawn mowers come in all power options, including gas and electric (corded or cordless). Some you ride, and some you push. If you like your current lawn mower, there may be a kit that lets you convert it to a mulching model. No matter which kind you choose, you’ll have greener grass, because the mulch adds nutrients to the soil.

How Does a Mulching Mower Work?

Mulching mowers feature rotary blades that spin on a horizontal plane. But instead of the straight blades, like a conventional rotary lawnmower, these are shaped to direct clippings toward the underside of the deck and cut them several more times before falling back on the lawn. Some mulching blades are curved, some serrated, and some are both.

A mulching mower has no side or back outlet. This allows clippings to swirl around under the mower deck. When you buy a conversion kit, it typically includes a cover for the discharge opening. The mower won’t mulch properly without it.

How To Use a Mulching Mower

If you’re not careful, some of that swirling grass under the deck of a mulching mower may band together into clumps, which the grass can’t absorb. Here’s how to prevent this:

  • Mow the grass only when it’s dry. Wait for the morning dew to dissipate. If you’re planning to water, do it after you mow.
  • Mow the grass often. This prevents oversized clippings from creating a layer of thatch.
  • Mow more slowly than you would with a regular mower to give the blades times to mulch.
  • Clean the blades and the underside of the deck before and after mowing.
  • Sharpen the blades frequently to maintain cutting power.
  • Weed the lawn before mulching. If you mulch weeds, you just spread the seeds. If the lawn has lots of weeds, bag the clippings until you can reduce the weed population.

To keep the grass healthy, set the mower height so that it cuts no more than one-third of the length of each blade. The grass should generally be about 1/2-in. longer than it would be if you were collecting the clippings. This keeps the roots healthy and hides the pulverized clippings that fall back onto the lawn.

Is Mulching Good for Your Grass?

Yes. And it’s also good for the environment.

  • Clippings provide nutrients the grass needs, including nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous. Because the clippings are ground into small particles, they decompose quickly, making the nutrients readily available.
  • Waste products from the microorganisms responsible for decomposition combine with the soil to produce carbon-rich humus. This helps the soil retain moisture. A cover of fresh clippings aids that process.
  • According to the Environmental Protection Agency, yard trimmings account for more than 12 percent of municipal solid waste. So every bag of clippings used as mulch takes some strain off your local landfill.

Top Mulching Lawn Mowers

If you’re looking for a push mower, you can choose a corded, cordless or gas model. Or you could opt for a gas-powered riding mower. Here are some awesome mid-range choices. Once you’ve finalised your pick, don’t forget about getting a lawn mower cover, too.

Best Corded

 Greenworks 12 Amp 20' Corded Lawn Mower

The GreenWorks 12-Amp Corded Lawn Mower offers back or side discharge as well as mulch mode. There are no emissions and no batteries to charge.

Best Cordless

Worx Wg743 40v Power Share 4.0ah 17' Cordless Lawn Mower

The Worx 40V Power Share comes with a battery charger and two 20V batteries that provide enough power to mulch 1/8-acre on a single charge. The batteries can be used with any other Worx tools.

Best Gas

 Craftsman M105 140cc 21 Inch 3 In 1 Gas Powered Push Lawn Mower With Bagger

The Craftsman Gas Powered Push Lawn Mower is a standard pull-start mower with auto-choke, which means you simply pull the cord and go. Like the GreenWorks, it offers back and side discharge plus mulching options. It features six height settings and a 21-inch cutting deck.

Best Riding

 Husqvarna 42' 18.5 Hp Hydrostatic Riding Mower

The Husqvarna Riding Mower offers an 18.5-horsepower gas engine and a top speed of 7.4 mph, making it one of the faster riding mowers on the market. Air induction prevents grass from flattening under the blade. The mulching kit and clipping bag are sold separately.