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Written by Stephen Exel
In Birmingham, once-vacant lots teem with fruit and lettuce. An inner-city greenhouse feeds a community in Milwaukee. Backyard garden plots in Denver redefine the locavore movement. In Portland, city farmland doubles as an open-air classroom. A farm with lush Ice Age soil in New York nurtures prized heirloom vegetables. Five urban farms, five methods, one goal: to teach us where our food comes from—and how to make the most of it.
From Farm: Will Allen founded Growing Power in 1993 in a Milwaukee neighborhood where Big Macs and fries were more accessible than carrots and apples.
Today, Growing Power has sprouted more than 70 offshoots, providing training and technical assistance to city farmers, while also supplying local markets and restaurants.
Will’s vision and vigor earned him a MacArthur Foundation “genius grant” and he was invited to help launch Let’s Move, first lady Michelle Obama’s health and fitness initiative for kids. Still, his favorite occupation is digging in the soil with kids, encouraging vegetables and minds to grow.
To table: Chef Jan Kelly, owner of the Milwaukee restaurant Meritage, met Will seven years ago and has been buying produce from Growing Power since. “He’s bringing the urban farm concept to the world,” Jan says. “He’s teaching people to grow fresh food for themselves.”
A variety of produce infuses these flatbreads with garden-fresh flavor.
Yield: 4 servings
1. In a large skillet, saute onion in 1 Tbsp. oil for 3 minutes. Add the zucchini, red pepper, herbs, salt and pepper; saute 4-5 minutes longer or until vegetables are crisp-tender.
2. Brush pita breads with remaining oil. Top with vegetables and sausage if desired; sprinkle with cheese. Bake at 400° for 15–18 minutes or until cheese is melted.
Nutrition Facts: 1 pizza (calculated without sausage) equals 280 calories, 10 g fat (3 g saturated fat), 8 mg cholesterol, 523 mg sodium, 40 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 9 g protein.
From Farm: The sprawling Zenger Farm first supported crops almost 100 years ago. In 1994, the city bought the land to preserve as a farm and watershed. A year later, the land was cultivated again, this time in partnership with local schools, which use the farm to teach city kids about land stewardship, healthy eating and more.
Zenger Farm raises everything from fruits and veggies to eggs, honey and heritage-breed turkeys. The farm just started a low-income Community Supported Agriculture program that allows families to pay weekly with money or food stamps.
As for the students who come here to learn what chickens eat and how bees make honey, their numbers have been shooting up like corn in July.
“The first year we had just a handful of kids in our classes,” says Executive Director Jill Kuehler. “Now we have 4,500 a year.” Her goal is to develop the CSA into a model for other farms and expand youth education programs to yearlong cycles, moving between schools and farm.
“Any time I see a kid pull a carrot or potato out of the ground and see where his food comes from, that ‘aha’ moment is a great experience,” she says.
To table: Chef Adam Sappington from the Country Cat Dinner House in Portland has to restrain himself from buying everything Zenger has to offer. “The work behind the produce transfers to the food with passion and knowledge,” he says. “There’s not only an abundance of produce, but an amazing education program for kids and adults alike. They are spreading the word.”
Creamy dressing and poached egg combine for a luxurious dish you won’t soon forget.
DRESSING:
SALAD:
1. In a food processor, combine the juices, egg yolk and garlic; cover and process until blended. While processing, gradually add oil in a steady stream. Season with salt. Add herbs; cover and process until combined. Transfer to a bowl; whisk in enough cream to reach desired consistency. Cover and refrigerate until serving.
2. Cut lettuce into four wedges (cut from top to stem end); set aside.
3. Place 2-3 in. of water in a large skillet with high sides; add vinegar. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer gently. Break cold eggs, one at a time, into a custard cup or saucer; holding the cup close to the surface of the water, slip each egg into water.
4. Cook, uncovered, until whites are completely set and yolks are still soft, about 4 minutes. With a slotted spoon, lift eggs out of water.
5. To serve, spread a small amount of dressing onto four salad plates. Top each with a lettuce wedge and an egg. Spoon additional dressing over top and season with salt and pepper.
Nutrition Facts: 1 serving equals 599 calories, 61 g fat (9 g saturated fat), 263 mg cholesterol, 95 mg sodium, 7 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 9 g protein.
From Farm: After working on farming projects in Australia, Mongolia and Mexico, Edwin Marty came home to Birmingham in 2001 determined to turn the city’s empty warehouses and vacant lots into productive farmland.
“The idea was to give back to the city,” Edwin says. “Birmingham has the second highest rate of childhood obesity. Wouldn’t it be cool to have a food culture that’s a healthy, economical, productive part of the community?”
Edwin now oversees one suburban and two inner-city farms, selling organic produce, herbs and flowers to fund educational programs, healthy eating and sustainable agriculture. The downtown location includes 38 farm plots rented to neighbors.
“When you re-localize the food product so it comes from the neighborhood, kids get excited,” Edwin says. “Health goes up.”
Recently, the farm started supplying snacks to a local day camp for kids from low-income families. Chips out; fresh fruit in. Cantaloupe was a big hit. One girl who relished a plum said she’d never had one before.
Jones Valley is making an impact, says local food writer Lisa Gaddy Frederick. “Edwin Marty is a guy with a great vision,” she says. “We’re lucky to have him, and need more like him!”
To table: Chef Chris Harrigan, owner of Stones Throw Bar & Grill in Mount Laurel, Alabama, once took a two-year hiatus from cooking to deliver organic produce. “Any time you can get vegetables just hours old, the texture and flavor is 100 times better,” he says. “Edwin is beating the drum about nutrition and raising awareness about the relationship between health and organic produce.”
The tomato vinaigrette captures summer’s essence.
CORN CAKES:
1. Place tomatoes in a food processor; cover and process until smooth. Add the vinegar, oil, shallot and garlic; cover and process for 15 seconds. Season with salt and pepper.
2. In large bowl, gently combine shrimp and crab. Fold in 1 cup vinaigrette. Set aside.
3. In a small bowl, beat egg white until stiff peaks form. Remove corn from cobs; transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the whole egg, flour, sugar, chives, salt and pepper. Fold in egg white.
4. Heat butter in a large nonstick skillet over high heat until hot. Working in batches, drop batter by tablespoonfuls into skillet, adding additional butter if necessary. Reduce heat to medium; cook for 2-3 minutes on each side or until golden brown.
5. To serve, add arugula to shrimp mixture; gently toss to coat. Arrange corn cakes on each of four serving plates. Top each with salad and drizzle with additional vinaigrette. Sprinkle with chives.
Nutrition Facts: 1 serving equals 357 calories, 17 g fat (4 g saturated fat), 203 mg cholesterol, 460 mg sodium, 24 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 29 g protein.
From Farm: Colorado native Sundari Kraft, inspired by an urban farming project in Boulder and by Barbara Kingsolver’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, founded Heirloom Gardens, an urban farm and Neighborhood Supported Agriculture (NSA) program. She offers classes in cooking, gardening and, for the adventurous, raising backyard chickens and goats.
“I realized I could grow enough to feed my family and sell the rest,” Sundari explains. She spread the gospel and got others interested. The system is simple: A homeowner applies to have a garden created, and Sundari organizes apprentices to install and maintain it. The family uses what it needs, and the rest is distributed to the apprentices, the NSA, or a nearby farmers market.
“The neighborhood becomes invested in what’s happening and takes ownership,” Sundari says. “It’s about empowering people and encouraging them to start where they live.”
As its name implies, Heirloom Gardens also is dedicated to preserving vegetable varieties in danger of dying out because they don’t fit into industrial-scale agriculture. Sundari and her partners grow 15 kinds of squash and more than 20 types of tomatoes on their 27,000 square feet of land.
To table: In true NSA fashion, we didn’t have to travel far to find a chef who uses Heirloom Gardens’ bounty. Sundari herself teaches cooking classes and posts recipes to her website, eatwhereulive.com.
This recipe makes ingenious use of the beet greens.
Yield: 6 servings
1. Trim beet greens and set aside. Cut beets in half and rub with 1 Tbsp. olive oil. Wrap red and golden beets separately in foil. Bake at 400° for 1 hour or until tender.
2. Meanwhile, place green beans in a large saucepan and cover with salted water. Bring to a boil. Cover and cook for 5-6 minutes or until crisp-tender; drain.
3. Cut cheese into ¼-in. slices or roll into bite-sized balls. Coat with walnuts. Remove beets from foil. When cool enough to handle, peel beets and cut into wedges.
4. Coarsely chop beet greens. In large skillet, heat remaining olive oil over medium heat. Add beet greens; cook until lightly wilted. Season with salt.
5. To serve, arrange beet greens on a serving platter. Top with beets, green beans and cheese. Sprinkle lightly with garlic oil. Season with salt and pepper.
Nutrition Facts: 1 serving (calculated without salt and garlic oil) equals 167 calories, 13 g fat (3 g saturated fat), 13 mg cholesterol, 116 mg sodium, 9 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 5 g protein.
From Farm: You won’t find a website for Paffenroth Gardens. You’ll have to track down Alex Paffenroth at his 72-acre farm or his stall at New York City’s Union Square Greenmarket.
Paffenroth Gardens exists on a very special slice of land—the so-called “Black Dirt” Region of southern Orange County, New York, and northern New Jersey. The area boasts extraordinary fertile soil with a high concentration of slate, the remains of an ancient glacial lake bottom. For years, the soil produced mostly onions. Alex had a hand in changing that.
“I grew up on this farm,” he says. “It belonged to my great-grandfather, and I took it over from my father in 1967.” He grew onions, too, until he started meeting chefs who frequented the Greenmarket. He listened to what they asked for, and he diversified. “I grow 230 crops over the course of the year,” he says. “I give the guys what they want.”
Alex specializes in heirloom root vegetables, including potatoes, carrots, parsnips and salsify. He’s known for his sunchokes—sweet, nutty veggies formerly known as Jerusalem artichokes. His motto? “ ‘My farm to your table is food less traveled.’ It’s all about slow food and a low carbon footprint.”
To table: Executive Chef Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern sees his Manhattan restaurant as a place where local produce can shine. “Alex is one of the pillars of the market,” he says. “He understands the soil and the impact of vegetables being in their moment of the season. He explores new varieties. He makes them approachable. It’s a celebration of what we can do.”
Two words: earthy goodness.
1. In a large saucepan, cook onion and 1 garlic clove in 1 Tbsp. oil over medium heat until soft, about 3 minutes. Add barley; cook and stir for 2 minutes. Add the vegetable stock, salt and pepper. Bring to boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer for 45 minutes or until barley is tender.
2. Meanwhile, in another saucepan, combine the carrots, carrot and orange juices and cumin. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until carrots are tender and liquid has evaporated. Stir in butter and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.
3. In small skillet, saute mushrooms in remaining oil until tender. Add remaining garlic; cook 1 minute longer.
4. To serve, toss carrots and mushrooms with barley. Sprinkle with herbs. .
Nutrition Facts: 1 serving equals 209 calories, 8 g fat (2 g saturated fat), 3 mg cholesterol, 660 mg sodium, 31 g carbohydrate, 6 g fiber, 5 g protein.
May 28, 2012 7:13 PM
Love the article, just joined Hyperlocavore, and have already found a local community garder for my heirloom tomatoes. This article will help convince some of my friends to do the same. I wish there were a way to save articles to a "Scrap-book" here at Fresh Home. I can't always print articles and sometimes when I come back and look for them - they're gone! Tried the e-mail method and that doesn't always work either. Just a thought.
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May 28, 2012 7:12 PM
June 30, 2011 2:38 PM
Oh, I've been to Zenger Farm! Gotta try their recipe.