These mobile planters provide an easy way to move large plants or small trees around your patio or deck in the summer—and roll them inside for the winter.
Step 1: Build the Base
Step 2: Angle Cut the Uprights
Step 3: Install the Uprights
Step 4: Install the Top Braces
Step 5: Mark the Slats
Step 6: Attach the Side Slats
Step 7: Install the Top Slats
Crisscross the four base pieces, leaving space for the uprights at the outer corners as shown. Drill 1/8-in. pilot holes, then use glue and 2-in. galvanized screws to secure the four pieces together.
Make lines 3/16-in. from both ends of the uprights, then draw the angled lines to indicate the beveled ends. Cut the ends at this angle using a handsaw.
Drill 1/8-in. pilot holes in the corners of the base, then screw the uprights in place using 2-in. galvanized screws. Make certain the uprights flair outward.
Cut the ends of the top braces at 45-degree angles, then screw them to the tops of the uprights as shown using 2-in. screws.
Measure the top and bottom of one side of the planter frame, then transfer these measurements to five slats laid on a flat surface. Use a circular saw set at 45 degrees to cut the slats. Repeat this for the other three sides.
Position the slats on the frame, leaving 3/16-in. gaps. Drill 1/8-in. pilot holes, then secure each slat with glue and two 1-in. screws on each end.
Cut the ends of the top slats at 45-degree angles, then secure them to the top of the planter with screws. Apply an exterior stain or clear finish to protect the wood.
If you plan on filling your planter with soil, line it with heavy-duty plastic held in place with staples. Punch a few small holes in the bottom for drainage. To make the planter portable, attach four casters to the base, one in each corner.
© 2012 Reiman Media Group, LLC.