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The portability of a laptop deserves a work surface that's just as mobile, and this small leaning desk uses gravity and friction for stability against a wall.
Intro
Step 1: Cut the Pieces
Step 2: Cut a Recess for the Cable
Step 3: Cut the Angled Edges
Step 4: Assemble the Desktop
Step 5: Attach the Legs
Step 6: Plug the Screw Holes
Step 7: Finish the Desk
Produced by Darryl Chapman
The design of a computer work table is critical to the comfort of the user, it must be ergonomic and a comfortable height from the ground.
A home laptop desk should ideally be between 26-in. and 30-in. high, and if housing a desktop computer the keyboard and mouse should be between 2 1/2-in. and 4-in. below the monitor for comfortable use.
Use laminated pine for the top, and pine for the risers and legs. Use a circular saw with a straightedge guide to cut the panels or have the supplier cut the parts ready for assembly, cutting the top with the grain running front to back. The edges of the shelf, desktop and legs are cut at 15° using a circular saw and compound miter saw.
Along the back edge of the desktop, 4-in. from the sides, mark a line 5/8-in. from the back edge, using a coin as a template to mark the curved ends, cutting using a jigsaw fitted with a scroll blade.
Set up a compound miter saw and a circular saw to make 15° cuts, using an offcut to test the cutting angles. Use the compound miter saw to cut the top and base of the legs and the front of the risers, and the circular saw to cut the front edge of the shelf.
Position and clamp the risers to the desktop and shelf, aligning the angled cuts. Drill pilot holes and dry-assemble using #8 x 1-1/2-in. wood screws, check the desktop is square then disassemble, apply adhesive and secure with screws.
Clamp the legs onto the desktop and rest the desk against a wall to test that the feet are flush to the floor. Drill pilot holes to attach the legs at the top with four #8 x 1-1/4-in. wood screws each side.
If you plan to paint or stain the desk, use a plug cutter fitted with a drill to bore wood plugs to cover the screw heads. Apply adhesive to the screw holes and tap in a plug using a hammer, aligning it with the wood grain for a neat finish.
Smooth all over with 120-grit sandpaper then apply a coat of primer, smoothing lightly with abrasive paper when dry. Apply two coats of hard-wearing enamel, using a mini paint roller to reach corners or tight spots, leaving to dry.